There are very few places in the world that exude style, flair and the hosting of such a theatrical setting – with such heartfelt warmth I must add – like Mahali Mzuri. Welcome to the very first Virgin Limited Edition property in Kenya, located in the heart of one of the richest wildlife landscapes in the world, the Masaai Mara. This is a Richard Branson signature ‘home away from home’ creation that is executed with such finesse, yet entirely unpretentious in its translation of a luxury lodge in the heart of Africa.
From the moment of your arrival at the Mara North airstrip, the Virgin team is ready on hand to start a memorable journey of hospitality. Waiting patiently, clad in their fiery warrior red and bright blue shukas, their sun beaten heads adorned in a proud flourish of fine feathered headdresses, are the world famous Kenyan Masaai guides. Lean and muscular, these hardened men of the land break into infectious bright smiles as they welcome you from your flight. This warm, happy greeting along with a serving of some very well chilled champagne, sets the stage against the magical backdrop of the prehistoric plains of the Masaai Mara. Handing out and gently tying on hand beaded Maasai bracelets on each of the guests wrists, almost as if in an act of bringing you into the clan, you feel you are already going to be part of a memorable story.
There is an excitement building as we swiftly cross the plains, wildebeest bucking in a wild show of defiance and impala flying in leaps and bounds beside our open air safari Landrover. The crisp chilled champagne and the conversation flows freely as we take in the rise and sweep of this magnificent land. We are truly in Man’s Last Paradise and there is a sudden inner humbleness as you realize the privilege of still being able to witness one of the world’s greatest wildlife displays. After a surprisingly quick one hour drive, we gently maneuver our gentle giant of a four wheel drive through natural rock outcrops and numerous shallow river crossings, delving deeper into the Ol Motorogi Conservancy. We round the bend to a sight that really does take your breath away. We’ve arrived at our destination and I am rather, well, absolutely thrilled.
This lovely property sits high and proud in the fertile, wildlife abundant Ol Motorogi Conservancy. In a spectacular setting, the eco-chic structures of the stretched canvas roofs rise and swoop, curving and bending with muscular aluminium truss arms that support and shape. I love this infusion of modernism in a prehistoric setting, remaining subtle and sitting elegantly in this natural paradise. Mahali Mzuri is a property that is entirely successful in discreetly embracing intelligent architectural design with a strong infusion of African heritage. It is extraordinarily beautiful with split level decks and wooden timber walkways marrying all the different areas together, allowing for different relaxation spots away from the main mess tent.
It would be true to say that it is a very modern lodge and a different product all together from some of the well known classic safari camps. The interiors unabashedly celebrate Kenyan fabrics, culture, furniture, all translated in subtle nuances. Each of the very private tents have extended decks that overlook a flourishing valley with a natural stream that flows in between two great rising walls of land. This is fantastic for game viewing as animals wonder to quench their thirst, all under your quiet watchful eye from high above.
The Virgin team at Mahali Mzuri have entirely embraced the true Kenyan spirit. We are a people known all over the world as being the greatest East African hosts, and so this extends deeply into the philosophy of the Virgin Brand and particularly into feeding and watering you on your stay! Lan, one of our hosts on the management team is Queen of Cocktails at Mahali Mzuri and mixes us a mean Bloody Mary with muddled iced cucumber. Fresh Lemonade anyone? She has it freshly squeezed in a second and this is served at the pool deck as we lounge, as lazily as the all great Mara River hippos, in a very seductive infinity pool.
Now, as you all know, culinary flair, especially out in the wild, is what I’m all about. The rooms and the views are all gorgeous, the service is spot on, but tell me – is there a gourmet story to be told of Mahali Mzuri? As what I imagine of most of the Branson properties, the team are young. Young, dynamic, full of fresh ideas and with a talent to knock your socks off. The menus for lunch are simple, but welcoming in the searing heat. Fresh wraps and salads with ingredients sourced straight from the little ‘shamba’ that the team are lovingly tending to, despite the challenges with water and heat in this remote region. Salads are very American; robust, very ‘rough and tumble’ but lovingly prepared with rustic ingredients such as roasted beetroot, and amped up with flavorful ingredients such as goats cheese. There are soft pizzas when you need some home comfort and burgers that just remind you that you are on holiday and so, why not?
So who is leading this team of culinary stars? Meet the very charming Johnny Visser. Now this man looks like he belongs to a roaming rock band… he has certainly set style standards for a chef out in the bush. Always smiling and exceptionally friendly, this is a character you won’t forget easily. Having worked his way through a Gordon Ramsay restaurant and the epic ‘Loam’ in Australian, he couldn’t refuse a once in a lifetime offer to work with a Virgin property in Africa. Along with his wife Lan, he hosts the guests at Mahali Mzuri with all the professionalism and warmth needed for such a reputable global brand. So how does Johnny feel about working out in the bush in a very new cultural setting…
‘One needs to have a sense of humour and a quick thinking mind to create a menu that could change in a matter of minutes depending on the guests in house. It has been an amazing and rewarding experience that I would not change for the world. And I will never forget Christmas day either – I have never seen Maasai run so fast when they saw an octopus and a lobster for the first time!’
Johnny is training up an entirely local team of Maasai chefs, who have never before been in a professional kitchen. He has this to say about the progress he has made with his sterling team..
‘One of the most challenging parts of my role has been to train local Masaai people on how to run Mahali Mzuri’s kitchen. Many of my fellow workers have not sat down at a restaurant and eaten the food that we serve. To understand the cultural differences whilst still creating high quality, delicious food has been an on-going task but a rewarding one when you see the progress that we have made together. I would say my approach was gentle in the beginning with respecting cultural differences, but as time has gone on I have found it more important to instill the philosophy of the kitchen. My focus is on teaching the team a sense of urgency and flexibility with a constantly changing menu, whilst maintaining a level of consistency and attention to detail when plating up food. ‘
With the style and theme of the lodge very much a home away from home concept, Johnny tries to ensure that all specific guests dietary requirements are met. He describes how so many of the guests are health conscious so he tends to minimize the use of fats and creams. Surprisingly he tells me, his most popular dish is his soups. And for this he gives credit to all the wonderful fresh produce that they cultivate in their vegetable patch on site. I think it is just extraordinary that this can be achieved in such a remote area with erratic weather conditions, absolutely brilliant. I’m also amazed at the lengths the kitchen crew go to ensure a guests dining experience is so personalised.
‘I don’t like to confirm or commit to menus until I have met all the guests and have gone through what they would like to eat during their stay at Mahali Mzuri. Firstly I discuss any dietary needs from guests and if there are any celebrations that we can help with and then I try to find out their favourite foods so I can try to incorporate them into my menus. I like to write the menu the night before with the team. It is very common for all my planning during the day to be changed at the last minute. The biggest culprit – a request for a bowl of spaghetti bolognaise!’
My absolutely favourite part of the day, I must admit, has to be teatime. Johnny lays out a serious treat with perfect timing as you are about to head out for your evening game drive. I could easily be at home in my mother’s garden as we devour scones, freshly baked tarts and soft sponge cakes. The coconut kisses are completely addictive and if you have kids, they’ve even thought about super healthy smoothies for your little devils.
I’m a foodie and to keep me happy in the middle of the bush could be quite challenging. This property has the Taste Safari Stamp of Approval. I am completely impressed with the commitment to recruit and train future chefs from the surrounding community. Considering the standards expected from a Virgin property, I applaud a chef like Johnny for taking on the challenge to train a brand new team that have absolutely no culinary experience whatsoever. That, I feel, in a nutshell is where Richard Branson’s philosophy has always paid off. His inherent belief in the almost impossible translates across every person he employs and I now totally understood why all his staff are very carefully handpicked.
I must admit, he has won my heart with his recent, out in the open, honest article on supporting countries that have been affected inadvertently by terrorism. This is a man who is true to his philosophy, his way of thinking and his down to earth attitude about everything. This is not one to miss – get out there and get booking. Celebrate Kenya with Mahali Mzuri in spectacular style!
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