Considering I already have an alarming weakness for anything remotely Italian, it wasn’t exactly a tough week spent in a world class hotel kitchen – the Villa Rosa Kempinski – experimenting, cooking and exchanging recipes with a celebrated and very very talented Sicilian chef. I couldn’t of asked for a better companion in the kitchen, Chef Silvio. A great hulk of a man with the most sincere appreciation of well sourced ingredients, a larger than life personality that extends compassionately and respectfully to his comrades in the kitchen and a keen eye for translating traditional, regional Italian cuisine with such finesse.
I admit, I am rather nervous of the regiment of hotel kitchens. Naturally, there are international rules and regulations that must be adhered to and in some kitchens, certainly not all, rank and order are prominent. In my world of culinary adventures, whether it’s cooking on a hot, stretch of soft sanded beach or on the edge of a chilly mountain lake, hotel kitchens are altogether, a rather different realm. Yet, here I was, at the helm of the kitchen of this very reputable restaurant and I was blissfully submerged, cooking alongside the charming, very gracious and very witty, Chef Silvio, with great ease. This, of course, has partly to do with the fact that I was practically like a kid in a candy store, with all the top of the range equipment, grills, ovens galore tooting all their bells and whistles. However, I realised a large part of feeling so very comfortable was the friendly, easy calm with which cooking and creativity was being undertaken. The complete respect for ingredients, the natural flow and synchronisation that permeated through the team and how innovation, learning and teaching flowed through the kitchen. I’m pretty sure it has been rather more dramatic on other days, especially on a full house, but I was impressed by the feel good buzz that all the staff seemed to glow with.
Now, I was especially excited to work with Silvio as I wanted to explore his own translation of his motherland’s globally celebrated cuisine. The story is even more alluring, as he admits openly with a very matter of fact attitude that he is a self taught cook. Joking, he claims his alliance to the ‘Michelin man,’ as opposed to ‘Michelin stars,’ reflecting his jovial demeanour and his Italian-Chef-out-of-a-movie look. As we talked, it was heartwarming to hear his childhood stories, so so very similar to mine. One in particular that stands out, is that of his mother already discussing what to make for dinner, halfway, through lunch. I roared in laughter at this, as I felt he was talking about my childhood. This is where cooking from the heart comes from. Cooks like myself draw on memory of taste, family gatherings and childhood feasts and we bring that love to the table and infuse it into our recipes .
So how can I describe the menu style at Lucca? This is unpretentious, earthy, homely recipes that have been drawn into world class cuisine with subtle, but very clever nuances. There are intelligent pairings that are explosively delicious with a serious eye on cooking techniques. What impressed me the most are the traditional methods that are deployed, such as the roasting of an aubergine for the Insalata di Baccala over an open gas fire, but the final touches to this part of the dish include the luxury of truffle oil and a crush of roasted orange rind. These are recipes close to my own style of cooking..preserving age old methods, but sweeping recipes into a modernist world by working cleverly on the taste profiles. Execution beautiful; Presentation, lovingly crafted without terrifying the hell out the customer… I will eat here time and time again.
Now this brings me to this decadent Italian Easter menu proudly created by a team of expert chefs at Lucca. With the Italian population largely Catholic, Easter is a rather serious affair. Bread is always quite important and in Sicily ,’baby doll’ breads are given to little girls and ducks, lambs or horses for boys. The Colomba Pasquale, the traditional dove shape bread has many legends that surround it and comes in many forms from a simple two crossed strips of dough to more elaborate fantastical productions.
The new season tender lamb, we all know is traditional and dates back to the Old Testament, an item specifically related to Christ, the ‘Lamb of God.’ This is paired with a vibrant nutty pistachio seasoned crust and served over a roasted tomato and red pepper rouille, celebrating new harvest and the colour red representing life force. Cooked to pink perfection, this is a dish worth savouring and enjoying with a lovely Shiraz wine pairing.
The fish I was exceptionally impressed with. First of all, it is black cod. An entire decadence on it’s own. Chef Silvio works his magic with this cold water Alaskan fish, poaching it in a fennel, orange and lightly seasoned broth to perfection and then flaking this melting butter like fish over a smoky, truffle seasoned aubergine caviar. With a lively addition of peppery rucola, you must try this lovingly crafted dish.
Desserts must not be forgotton and I will certainly need an entirely separate article on this, but I must mention the lusciousness of the tree tomato ice cream hidden in a handmade, delicate dark and milk chocolate egg shell. Pure genius and extraordinary delicacy in this art deco, perfect, slate mounted creation. Not forgetting to celebrate our Kenyan fruits, Chef Fernando brings hints of his Asian training to suave fruit carvings. This is a sophisticated finish with several dessert techniques bought together in one perfect palette. Divine.
I am perfectly content now that I have finally found an answer to no nonsense, well sourced, original ‘cibo gourmet italiano’ in the heart of a vibrant, constantly transitioning city such as Nairobi. It also makes rather smug, that Kenya draws the attention of world class chefs such as Silvio and Fernando, who bring their unbridled passion to Africa. Ofcourse, how can I forget to mention… I’m especially proud and always humbled, that I am able to cook right alongside such talent, loving every moment of it.
This coming week, I have exclusive access to these wonderful recipes so please make sure you check in, even better, book a table at Lucca over the Easter period (+254 (020) 360 3119) and enjoy this passionate journey of delectable cuisine. I am reveling in all life has to offer me…keep posted for so much more to come..from my table to yours xxx
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