Dulce de Membrillo

The Spaniards have given us many many beautiful things. Cities where the history of battle, love and lore are bound within the winding stone flag paths, vibrant passionate culture celebrating life and love again, the stories told in dance and tales by even more beautiful people. Spain gave us Gehry’s Guggenheim and the Cesar Pelli’s shimmering 41 storey tower. The wonders unfold dramatically across the gourmet landscapes of this mountainous land as you traverse from the winter snow caps of the Sierra Naevada in the north to the coastal belly where the long stretches of seafood culinary extrodinaire await. Spain gave us Sherry, mouthwatering dry Fino that the Andulusians proudly hold close as iconic to their region. Culinarians celebrate Iberico ham from Jabugo in Huelva, that is truly spectacular, whilst the Basque Country proudly showcase their own version of tapas, the famous ‘pinxtos.’

This list is endless and I am a devotee to Spanish food. In today’s blog, I’m going to explore one of the less talked about, but one of the most sought out, Spanish ingredients. Membrillo. Luscious, mouthwatering, Dulce de Membrillo.

The quince paste that we know today, made with 50% quince pulp and 50% sugar, originated in a small town in Andalusia called Puente Genil. According to area lore, in 1840 a local man named Rafael Rivas Pérez opened a confectionery in this town in Córdoba where he began to make quince paste.

Today this tradition is more alive than ever, thanks to the descendents of this confectioner who are behind the largest national company that produces quince paste, both in terms of volume and sales, El Quijote. Five generations of this company keep the recipe alive and that is something worth writing about.

The quince is a fruit that resembles a knobbly pear of sorts. To prepare Membrillo, it is cooked whole with the skin on for an hour, seeded, diced and cooked again, this time with added sugar. The finished texture is referred to as ‘cheese’ but it is more likened to a thick but very smooth slab of jam or halva, but much lighter and full of intense sweet-sour notes. It is traditionally served with Manchengo cheese in Spain, but I use it in almost everything. From scenting rich pork casseroles to bringing a sweet note to a barbeque sauce style chicken. It’s the cranberry sauce of Spain, in my mind, and it imparts a unique depth of flavour when some subtle sweetness is required.

This is an ingredient I don’t dress up too much. If this might be the first time you are trying this, try this simple, but oh so very impressive, platter. All you need to really showcase your Dulce de Membrillo is a few key items. Experimenting as I do and thinking very much about the taste profiles, I discovered Pate and Membrillo go together exceptionally well. My personal preference is a woody, mushroom pate to compliment the sweet notes of the membrillo. Add to this some sharp Manchengo cheese and some fat sundried tomatoes for bite. For some greenery, swiftly blanch some asparagus tips, making sure they are still crunchy. This gourmet platter should be served with thin wholewheat crackers (please please don’t ruin this dish with some cheapo cheese crackers – these are great for other, er, occasions, but only authentic oat cakes or wholewheat crackers here please!)

So, now you know a little more about an authentic Spanish ingredient, create this sweet surprise Membrillo and cheese pairing with ease. In the photo below I have used a mango, stilton and ginger cheese that worked like it was begging to be eaten with Membrillo…a superb pairing and will work very well in place of Manchengo.